How Do You Hook Up Gas Guage For 1972 Cj5

how do you hook up gas guage for 1972 cj5

carb venturi leaking #2 - Jeep-CJ Forums

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This is a discussion on carb venturi leaking #2 within the Drivetrain forums, part of the CJ Forums category; Hey guys. '76 cj5 258 with an MC2100. I've soaked the carb overnight, blew out everything, it was clean to ...

02-25-2011, 02:34 AM	#1
Jeeper Vehicle(s): 1976 CJ5 258. MC2150 carb, PSC steering, Team Rush upgrade, 1 piece rear axles, all electronics relayed. Coming soon: Herculined tub, camo paint- and a bunch of filthy, muddy kids!   Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Mena, AR Age: 37 Posts: 142 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Hey guys. '76 cj5 258 with an MC2100. I've soaked the carb overnight, blew out everything, it was clean to begin with. Then rebuilt everything in it except the throttle shaft which is tight. Some of you may remember this problem- After shut down my venturis still drip. Before, it was just one that dripped A LOT, after the rebuild they both drip- but about the same volume of gas combined. This results in flooding, resulting in a long start time and start up fouling of the brand new plugs. As soon as she fires up she cleans up fast. (new plugs with TeamRush short mod) The float needle shuts down nicely, power valve and accelerator pumps are new with the rebuild. I'm thinking it has to be fuel line pressure. I'm thinking of buying a new fuel pump. I've kept the gas cap off, and no difference as well. If I disconnect the line from the carb it releases quite a bit a pressure. What is causing this? I'm sure my tank is venting. The line isn't close enough to the block or exhaust to be boiling gas. Any ideas? I'm friggin' stumped. __________________ 1976 CJ5, 1972 Olds 442, 1973 Ford F250 Camper Special, 1981 GS1000S Katana, 2002 4wd Durango

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02-25-2011, 04:02 AM	#2
Jeeper Vehicle(s): I have a stock 1985 CJ-7 with 258 inline 6 engine 4 speed amc 20 rear diff. with 2.71 gear ratio. 1967 Camaro convertible. (for sale). 2001 F-250 Crew cab, 7.3 diesel. 2005 Honda TRX 350 EX quad.   Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Indiana Age: 56 Posts: 105 Thanks: 4 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts	Make a tee fitting to go between the carb and filter. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see what you come up with.

02-25-2011, 04:09 AM	#3
Jeeper Vehicle(s): 1976 CJ5 258. MC2150 carb, PSC steering, Team Rush upgrade, 1 piece rear axles, all electronics relayed. Coming soon: Herculined tub, camo paint- and a bunch of filthy, muddy kids!   Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Mena, AR Age: 37 Posts: 142 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	I'd have to find a guage rated for it. But assuming I do, what's a normal range? On the vehicles I've worked on, I've never pulled a line and gotten much pressure at all. I'm going to pull the line INTO the pump and see what I get- see if its the same as above the pump. Maybe I can narrow it down. I'm kind of wondering if a blockage on the tank source pipe might be acting like a check valve, although I haven't seen anything like that before. Its usually a blockage preventing fuel from escaping. __________________ 1976 CJ5, 1972 Olds 442, 1973 Ford F250 Camper Special, 1981 GS1000S Katana, 2002 4wd Durango

02-25-2011, 08:57 AM	#4
Senior Jeeper Vehicle(s): 1979 CJ-7 with a fiberglass body and 1982 wide track axles, 258 I-6 with a 1995 4.0 head, HEI distributor, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, T-18 wide ratio tranny, and a 4 inch Rough Country lift with 33s. 1996 Chevy Tahoe Sport 2003 Yamaha R1 Baja Outlaw Boat/454 Chevy 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse   Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Kansas City Posts: 745 Thanks: 5 Thanked 33 Times in 32 Posts	I have a simple idea! You're in luck that you have a 2100 carb. You can run those with the top removed. Take the top of the carb off, start it and let it idle for a few minutes, then shut it off and just look at what it's doing. If the fuel level in the float bowl rises higher than the venturis due to gas being pushed through the needle and seat, you'll be able to watch it in action and you'll know it's either your fuel pressure is too high or your needle and seat are still leaking. If the float level stays where it's supposed to, you have something else weird going on. What height did you set your float level?

02-25-2011, 11:35 AM	#5
Jeeper Vehicle(s): 1976 CJ5 258. MC2150 carb, PSC steering, Team Rush upgrade, 1 piece rear axles, all electronics relayed. Coming soon: Herculined tub, camo paint- and a bunch of filthy, muddy kids!   Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Mena, AR Age: 37 Posts: 142 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Hey good idea. I'm gonna try that. I've bent the float down a little to lower the level but haven't ran it with the top off. My kit (like most) came with a little ruler so I'm gonna measure the level. __________________ 1976 CJ5, 1972 Olds 442, 1973 Ford F250 Camper Special, 1981 GS1000S Katana, 2002 4wd Durango

02-25-2011, 11:41 AM	#6
Senior Jeeper Vehicle(s): 1979 CJ-7 with a fiberglass body and 1982 wide track axles, 258 I-6 with a 1995 4.0 head, HEI distributor, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, T-18 wide ratio tranny, and a 4 inch Rough Country lift with 33s. 1996 Chevy Tahoe Sport 2003 Yamaha R1 Baja Outlaw Boat/454 Chevy 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse   Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Kansas City Posts: 745 Thanks: 5 Thanked 33 Times in 32 Posts	Quote: Hey good idea. I'm gonna try that. I've bent the float down a little to lower the level but haven't ran it with the top off. My kit (like most) came with a little ruler so I'm gonna measure the level. My float level is set at 9/16 from the top of the end of the float to the top of the carb body. The kit listed 7/16" 1/2" and 9/16" for float levels on the various carbs. Try and identify your carb in the kit instructions and set it to whatever it calls for.

02-25-2011, 11:49 AM	#7
Jeeper Vehicle(s): 1976 CJ5 258. MC2150 carb, PSC steering, Team Rush upgrade, 1 piece rear axles, all electronics relayed. Coming soon: Herculined tub, camo paint- and a bunch of filthy, muddy kids!   Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Mena, AR Age: 37 Posts: 142 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	K cool. I didn't measure the level, though I should have. It was so clean in there and had already been rebuilt I ASSuME'd it was ok. Man, this baby is SO CLOSE to being 100% mechanically. I can't go to paint until this issue is fixed. FRUSTRATING. __________________ 1976 CJ5, 1972 Olds 442, 1973 Ford F250 Camper Special, 1981 GS1000S Katana, 2002 4wd Durango

02-25-2011, 12:19 PM	#8
Jeeper Vehicle(s): I have a stock 1985 CJ-7 with 258 inline 6 engine 4 speed amc 20 rear diff. with 2.71 gear ratio. 1967 Camaro convertible. (for sale). 2001 F-250 Crew cab, 7.3 diesel. 2005 Honda TRX 350 EX quad.   Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Indiana Age: 56 Posts: 105 Thanks: 4 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts	I'm pretty sure you should have between 4 to 7 psi fuel pressure. The original carb and the Webers were a little different but 4 to 7 should be right for the 2100.

02-25-2011, 12:25 PM	#9
Senior Jeeper Vehicle(s): 1979 CJ-7 with a fiberglass body and 1982 wide track axles, 258 I-6 with a 1995 4.0 head, HEI distributor, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, T-18 wide ratio tranny, and a 4 inch Rough Country lift with 33s. 1996 Chevy Tahoe Sport 2003 Yamaha R1 Baja Outlaw Boat/454 Chevy 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse   Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Kansas City Posts: 745 Thanks: 5 Thanked 33 Times in 32 Posts	Quote: K cool. I didn't measure the level, though I should have. It was so clean in there and had already been rebuilt I ASSuME'd it was ok. Man, this baby is SO CLOSE to being 100% mechanically. I can't go to paint until this issue is fixed. FRUSTRATING. Never assume the previous owner did anything right! The carb kit instructions may be a pain to follow, but they are your friend. I just went through the 2100 I bought from one of our awsome fellow members. I installed a kit in it per instructions and it fired right up and purred like a kitten. The only adjustment that was required after the fact was to set the idle bleed screws using a vaccum gauge, and at 1-1/2 turns out, they were pretty darn close. I did make one small error. I had the accelerator pump rod in the wrong setting so I had a slight flat spot when I pressed down on the pedal. Once I corrected that it went away. That's one more thing to check. Make sure your pump rod is in the second to highest hole on the throttle shaft end, and in the inner hole on the pump end. It wouldn't have anything to do with your venturis leaking, but if it's not set right, correcting it might help make your throttle response better.

02-25-2011, 12:27 PM	#10
Senior Jeeper Vehicle(s): 1979 CJ-7 with a fiberglass body and 1982 wide track axles, 258 I-6 with a 1995 4.0 head, HEI distributor, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, T-18 wide ratio tranny, and a 4 inch Rough Country lift with 33s. 1996 Chevy Tahoe Sport 2003 Yamaha R1 Baja Outlaw Boat/454 Chevy 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse   Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Kansas City Posts: 745 Thanks: 5 Thanked 33 Times in 32 Posts	Quote: I'm pretty sure you should have between 4 to 7 psi fuel pressure. The original carb and the Webers were a little different but 4 to 7 should be right for the 2100. Yep, and the needle and seat in the 2100 should be pretty forgiving of fuel pressure unless it's ridiculously high, and I don't see that happening with a stock mechanical pump.

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carb venturi leaking #2 - Jeep-CJ Forums

Hey guys. 76 cj5 258 with an MC2100. Ive soaked the carb overnight, blew out everything, it was clean to begin with. Then rebuilt everything in it. ... 1976 CJ5, 1972 Olds 442, 1973 Ford F250 Camper Special, 1981 GS1000S Katana, 2002 4wd Durango. Digg this Post! Add Post to del.icio.us Bookmark Post in Technorati F this Post! Stumble this ... Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see what you come up with. Digg this Post! Add Post to del.icio.us Bookmark ... read more